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Iker Pou
«The high level pitches are always bolted the same, we who are always looking for new projects for our enjoyment and that of others, while many climbers who belong to the sporting elite (particularly some of the great athletes who compete in international competitions and who climb only a few days a year on rock), spend their time training and stealing first ascents.»
Johnny Dawes
Dawes (pronounced “Doors”), born in 1964, revolutionized British climbing in the mid-1980s with his first ascents of routes rated E8 and E9 on the UK difficulty scale.
Remy Brothers. Award winning company
It is impossible to calculate how many routes the two brothers, known as the most prolific climbers in the history of climbing, have opened to date. Only they keep track, obsessively, as only the Swiss can do. Beyond the undoubted quality of some of their creations, such as Motorhead, the path we present, we are also interested in understanding the philosophy and the inexhaustible engine that drives them.
Dream Time – The primordial block
You don't try Dream Time for fame, you try a line like this because it's incredible, it's a diamond-shaped boulder alone, in the woods, in a dominant position overlooking the whole valley, it seems to be placed on a pedestal, the holds are all in the right place as if tailor-made to be climbed; that's why you experience Dream Time, not for the degree, but for its purity. Inside you you know that there are few lines like those in the world."
Biographie – Story of a modern myth
Biographie is one of the most difficult and famous climbing routes in the world. This fame is certainly due to its difficulty, but above all to its line, of unattainable purity and aesthetics. So let's try to reconstruct its history and discover how Biographie, from a simple and anonymous project, equipped by a famous Himalayan climber, has now become one of the most sought-after routes in the world.
Cassin-Ratti, Torre Trieste
“Climbing this superb edge constitutes climbing par excellence – summarizes Cassin in his memoirs – it is the true limit of human possibilities and provides continuous enjoyment, given that the pitons are used more for safety than for progression.”
Motorhead, Eldorado
The most beautiful granite slab in the Alps, the Eldorado, almost five hundred meters high, clearly reveals the sublime that characterizes the highest expressions of art, in this case those of hard rock and its emotional harmony with the incredible arrangement of the holds on the rock. For every artist the ultimate is to reach perfection: find the perfect note, or climb the path of dreams...
NEWS YEARBOOK
Mountaineering and ice 2009
Crag 2009
Boulder 2009
Routes and cliffs 2009
