Up European Climbing Report 2017

Mythical streets
FANTASY Marmolada D’Ombretta - by Maurizio Giordani
“I will tell some of my realizations of the past, of their how and why, and I will try to do a quick and careful analysis of other things happened later, up to the summer of 2016, recently nuanced in a winter that very little winter He had (...) "
Delta Minox Pilastro del Scingino, Val Masino - by Eugenio Pesci
“On the other hand, the granite takes little to take revenge for this possible technical and motor abuse: it does so with little effort through the charm of the share, ice, grandiose and remote environments, and above all of its widespread presence in the large walls of the Most famous mountains of all continents, from Yosemite, to Greenland up to the trango towers, where there is the itinerary on more demanding and famous granite among the existing ones: Eternal Flame by Wolfgang GoboLich and Kurt Albert (...) "
Roman holidays MONTE CAMISTO - by Stefano Ardito*
“Many repeaters, in that vertical labyrinth, open more or less voluntary variants. The first street completely independent of that of 1934 was traced in 1999 by Roberto Iannilli and Ezio Bartolomei, and is a masterpiece. In July 2016, in the first rope shots of another new street
On the north, Roberto falls and dies with Luca D’Andrea, his partner in dozens of new streets. (...) "
REBUS CORNA DI MEDALE - by Eugenio Pesci
"December 26, 1984, towards the time when the sun sets, a path of connection between the via ferrata of the Corna di Medale, a large limestone wall of Lecco and sector of the antimeter sports streets.
Three boys with a very tired but satisfied air, decorated as a Ferraglia of all kinds, like trees of the aforementioned holiday, they meet at a crossroads with another group of young climbers; The latter, however, lighter and well whitewashed by magnesite puffs. (...) "

Errata Corrig
*In the paper edition the article by Stefano Ardito appears erroneously accredited to Fabrizio Ardito. The author of the text is Stefano Ardito, as he appears correctly in the index of the paper edition and on this page.
 

Mythical shot
Hubble - by Carlo Caccia
"Look for something and find something else: in English it is said Serendipity. An example? Call Stefano Ghisolfi to find out more about his ascent of Ultimatum (9a+) in Mason and discover that among his projects for 2017 there is also the legendary Hubble. More: Stefano reveals that he has already tried it, that he has already experienced those seven movements that on June 14, 1990, in a handful of seconds, raised the bar of difficulty. Ben Moon was looking for the first 8c+ and found the first 9a (...) "
Death - by Eva Toschi
"What is it that makes a historical shot?
It is the first question I asked myself to choose which line to tell about.
The numbers? The degree -yes, is certainly relevant -, the year in which it was nail, the number of people who managed to go up.
A meaning? I know, a meaning that is attributed to the only fact that I have climbed that line: it means being strong, talented, courageous, humble or arrogant or who knows what else.
An high -sounding name? Well, sometimes the names are full of value and a little bit tell the story behind us ... (...) "

Mythical block
Goldrake's grandson - by Alberto Milani
"" Grandma what does it mean "mythical"? "... silence ..." boh ... mah, maybe it means that it is beautiful "... silence ..." ah ... okay ". I was 4 years old, and I don't know where I had heard such
adjective that my poor, wonderfully simple grandmother had put me in difficulty.
Now, more than thirty years later, I am again struggling with this word,
By asking me doubtful: when a block is definable as "myth"? (...) "

Races
The long wait is over by Stefano Michelin
“1985, the first climbing race; 2020 the first Olympiad with climbing. 35 years of stories, events, transformations, discussions that have seen the competitive side of this discipline transforming, evolving, taking shape, acquiring content and finally leading to the Olympic dream (...) "

PERSONAGES
Alexander Megos - by Lorenzo Frusteri
"Interviewed Alex Megos is a bit like trying to comment on Leonardo's Mona Lisa saying something new, or even just interesting: not easy.
Alex Megos touched rock still very small, and he burned the stages in a disconcerting way, passing from the mountain to the races, from the carriage to the boulder with disarming ease. He arrives at 9th at the age of nineteen, rises 8b+ boulder and in short (...) "
Pietro Dal Prà - by Matteo Pavana
“I am a complex man full of contradictions, who has crossed
Beautiful moments and other less pleasant, always on the edge of Italian free climbing, but never with discontent, indeed, with a certain pride. For one reason or another, I have never climbed for too prolonged periods of time, alternating my mountaineer activity with that of mountain guide and skier. Now I realize that this has been a great luck (...) "
Matteo Rivadossi - by Ruggero Bontempi
"The darkness and light, water and ice, deep abysses and high lands, humidity, stone worlds.
Talking about the mountains and mountaineering with Matteo Rivadossi is first of all a journey through the most authentic and primordial elements and forms of an austere and mysterious nature, so powerful that it can sometimes affect a justified fear. (...) "

Report 2015
edited by Alberto Milani
Top mountaineering and ice
Top Falesia
Top Boulder

Materials
by the editorial staff

Relations and proposals
curated by Marco Romelli
ROCK
Ice and mixture